Advice for the Trail: Before you go

 

à Check ahead.  Prior to your trip, make sure dogs are allowed on the trail. Dogs are not allowed on National Park or National Monument Trails.  Review applicable leash laws for the area, as well as any special city ordinances regarding dogs.
 

à Condition your dog.  Choose a trail that meets the fitness level of you and your dog. Remember, the use of a dog pack and dog boots will require conditioning and a “break-in” period, so take your dog on mini-adventures around the block before taking them on a long hike. Most dogs are up to the task and eager to carry a load. Breeds such as Pointers, Heelers, and Retrievers are bred for the task and should adjust quickly to the extra load.
 

à Prepare for an emergency.  Check your dog’s shots records and ensure that they are up to date. Be sure identification tags are well attached to your dog’s collar in case they wander into unknown territory.
 

Advice for the Trail: Things to look out for

Dogs that wander off
Hunters during hunting season
Physical Exhaustion
Heat Exhaustion (download a copy of Ruff Wear's Guide to Animal Emergencies)
Hypothermia
Hurt or cut paws from sharp rocks and terrain
Torn paw pads from excessive exercise
Fleas, ticks and other parasites
Embedded plant life in dog fur such as stinging nettles, foxtails and cheatgrass.

 

Advice for the Trail: On the trail

à Keep your dog cool and hydrated.  Don’t forget to protect against overheating, even if it’s cold outside. Since dogs exhume heat through their mouths and paws, it is necessary to occasionally remove the paws from the boots and allow them to breathe, even in cool weather. This will also give you the opportunity to check for abrasion and sore spots on the feet.
 

Don’t forget dogs need extra hydration during robust activity. Be sure to pack lots of water.
 

à Condition your dog.  Remember that just like you, your dog requires conditioning prior to a long, physically demanding workout. If you are carrying about 25-30% of your weight, and your dog is doing the same, chances are they will outlast you, but be aware of signs of exhaustion such as panting, red gums, vomiting, or confusion.

 

à Prevent hypothermia and frostbite.  It is important to remember that dogs can get hypothermia. Winter weather protection is especially important for dogs with short, thin coats such as Boxers and Greyhounds. Shivering, stiff muscles, low pulse and respiration, cold body temperature (below 95°F), and unconsciousness are signs that your dog is suffering from hypothermia. Treat hypothermia by moving your dog to shelter and covering with blankets. Further attend to the dog by giving them warm water and sugar mix, and seek veterinary assistance immediately.
 

Frostbite is indicated by scaling and leathery feel of the skin, or tissue that appears to be whitened or waxy. Attend to frostbite by warming the area gradually. Seek shelter and wrap the area with a blanket. Eventually immerse in lukewarm water until the tissues are flushed. Seek veterinarian care immediately.
 

Prevent frostbite by covering susceptible areas such as the paws with dog boots.

à Protect your dog from winter weather. Layering your dog with an extra shield of protection much like you would wear can prevent hypothermia and discomfort from the cold. Make sure your dog jacket covers the belly and front legs, keeping your canine’s core warm and raising their overall temperature, while not constricting movement.
 

à Treat heat exhaustion.  If your dog does overheat, move them to a cool, shaded area or submerge in cold water if possible. Encourage your dog to drink water and stay hydrated. Continue the cooling process until the dog’s temperature reaches 104°F (40°C).
 

à Protect dog food from getting wet.  Dry dog food begins with using Ziploc bags to seal against moisture and tucking them away in your own pack, or your dog’s Ruff Wear pack that has added protection against water with waterproof zippers. Sealing the food will also keep unwanted critters out.
 

à Don’t overload your dog pack.  A pack should carry no more than 25-30% of your dog’s weight, depending on the health and fitness level of your dog. Start by conditioning your dog with small, light loads and gradually work your dog’s way up to heavier loads.
Pay special attention to sizing the pack. A properly fitted pack will not shift or rotate, but will allow you to get two fingers between the dog and the body of the pack. Keep your eye out for spots of wear or irritation that may indicate you have the wrong size pack or have fitted the pack incorrectly.
 

à Make your dog visible.  If you are headed out with your dog during hunting season, be sure to arm him with visibility.
 

à Be wary of parasites.  Always cloak your dog with a guard against fleas, ticks, mosquitoes and other parasites that carry illness and cause discomfort for your dog.

 

Canine Paw Protection

à Go farther, longer. Remember that as humans increase the number and duration of their activities, dogs are often not conditioned to do the same. Our gear-enhanced activities allow us to go farther, longer and on unusual terrains that bare dog paws are not equipped to handle. Avoid paw injuries from rocky terrain and worn out pads with dog boots. We recommend the use of dog boots for all your on-the-go adventures. Not only will these boots keep your dog’s paws in good shape, they can prevent against such nuisances as crab grass, foxtails, stinging nettles and snowballs.
 

à Protect against paw injuries. Dog boots can prevent a variety of injuries from the surfaces we walk and run on, on the trail or in urban environments. Trail running and walking is hard on all feet—rocks, roots, mud, snow or ice can be torturous. Generally, dogs' paws become conditioned to run on familiar surfaces after a few weeks, but new terrain and changing environmental conditions can cause stone bruising, cuts and blistered pads.

 

à Pavement can be just as hard on dog feet. Pavement comes in thousands of textures and can be extremely abrasive—hot in summer, freezing in winter and often riddled with glass and sharp metal debris, and laced with oils, solvents and de-icing chemicals.
 

à Identify sore feet.  Being in tune with your dog's activity level and personality can help you identify if they’re suffering from a paw injury. You should be able to tell if your dog is staying off his feet or favoring a paw. Look for the obvious cuts, blisters or in extreme cases a "sloughed" pad. Less noticeable will be abraded or thin pads. In this case look for small wet dots the size of a ballpoint pen or moist areas on the pads. These are areas where the pad has worn down to the capillaries. This condition is painful, as there is very little pad left on which to walk.
 

à Treat sore feet. To treat a cut pad, make certain there are no foreign objects left in the wound. Splinters, gravel and glass are just a few things to look for. Flush the wound with the sterile eye-skin washes or use a saline solution (1-tsp. salt to a quart of warm water) and dry the paw. You may want to apply an antibiotic ointment then wrap the paw with a non-stick pad.  A boot will protect the dressing and keep the area clean between dressing changes. For bruised pads, try to reduce activity to allow the pads to heal more rapidly. If left to their own, dogs will often regulate their activity to facilitate quicker healing.
 

à Breaking in dog boots. Don’t forget that just like your hiking boots, your dog’s boot will require a break-in period, so try to take your dog out on short adventures in the boots prior to a long trail hike. And don’t forget…for most dogs, footwear is a new concept. The first time your dog tries on a pair of boots it will be difficult not to laugh, as the dog will do a little dance. This is normal. Once you have the boots in place, immediately engage in your pup's favorite activity (chasing a ball, catching a flying disk or just running). After this “break in period” you and your buddy are ready to explore.